Garfield around the world

Pitcairn Island Adventure 9

2009-04-10T04:29:01Z

The old lady, “Bounty Bay”, is in dyer need of retirement or at least having a complete overhaul by a skilled ship plastic surgeon.
On our way back to Pitcairn, having paid a visit to Henderson Island, she showed us some more of her problems.
Jack our wonder mechanic already had declared our bilge pumps dead, so every 6 hours when he checked the engines he spend 5 minutes pumping up water out of the engine rooms by hand.
Next to this “minor" problem the lights on the dashboard went out, so now when I have my night watch I need to use a torch to read the gages. And this morning it turned out that our VHF-radio was not working, but finally Super Jack got it fixed, again.
Apart from those “little” problems the trip back to Pitcairn was very uneventful. Weather was calm, although in the early evening a weather front looking like the Poseidon Adventure tidal wave promised no good, but we arrived back in Pitcairn at 12.30 hours without a problem.

At 16.00 hours all our supplies where delivered together with some extra British luggage for Mangareva called Neil. I call him extra luggage because he is not very sociable; he hardly talks and only asks questions, small talk is strange to him. For example although he spent 10 weeks on Pitcairn, only on the last two days he packed our his brand new video camera and starts making pictures of the place where he’s been for 10 weeks. And this was only after one of us asked him if he made some nice films about Pitcairn. So we all think he is writing a book about Pitcairn after the bad publicity of last years, but he will not admit to that. Why we think that? Because he is married to a Taiwanese woman and was now returning home to Taiwan and while on Pitcairn he interviewed most of the population like he interviewed us. What girl lets her man go off for 10 weeks? Either he is a very lucky man or he is a writer.
The supplies consisted of fresh fruits and breadfruit harvested at the island. So on our way back to Mangareva via Temoe we can enjoy freshly picked banana, pineapple and passion fruit. They came in big supplies so the danger of scurvy will be lost on us.
We lifted anchor from Bounty Bay and set course for Temoe atoll and while we where leaving, big rainclouds began to surround the island and made Pitcairn Island disappear in a haze accompanied by a rainbow.

An ending for our adventure almost fitting for a fairy tale; like the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. Is the island really there, does it really exist or had we all just experienced a wonderful dream?

And as we headed off into the sunset with all shades of red, we sunk in our dreams of the last few weeks, thinking about our adventures and ready for new travels and adventures and being sure nothing ever will surpass these last weeks.

Pitcairn Island Adventure 9 remains copyright of the author erodrigo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Pitcairn Island Adventure 8

2009-04-11T01:23:58Z

Tomorrow morning we set sail again on the “luxury yacht” Bounty Bay; we are of to our third Pitcairn Island, Henderson Island.

I am on the one hand sad to leave and on the other happy we get to see the third of the four Pitcairn Islands.
I am sad because it has been such a beautiful week with all the lovely and friendly people I met and with the Warren family spoiling me rotten with marvellous hospitality and excellent food.

So for the next two weeks there will be no more blog until I reach an Internet café in French Polynesia.
I am sure I will have lots to tell you about all the things that gone wrong on our trip to Henderson Island and than back via Temoe atoll to Mangareva, in the French Polynesian Gambier Islands.
From Mangareva it will be another 4-hour flight to Tahiti.
So just be patient and I will tell you all about it in two weeks time.
I wish to thank all the people I met on Pitcairn Island and especially; Jay and Carol Warren and their family for treating me like a king while I was on the island, and Andrew, Paul and Sue for the fun and drinks we had on the two ‘party’ nights.
Just one recommendation for people who are thinking about visiting Pitcairn Island; what are you waiting for get here, it is beautiful and marvellous, for more information go to www.visitpitcairn.pn

Pitcairn Island Adventure 8 remains copyright of the author erodrigo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Pitcairn Island Adventure 7

2009-06-14T00:26:25Z

The last two days I have been walking around the island and had another party.
I’ve walked Pitcairn’s first Eco trail, this is a wonderful easy walk leading up to Christians cave.

Along the route you’ll find plaques explaining you everything about the flora and fauna found on Pitcairn. It tells you about the endemic species and the species brought over by the first Polynesian settlers and offcourse the species brought over since the resettlement in 1790 by the Bounty mutineers.
The people I am staying with are mentioned on the plaques because Carol rediscovered a plant that was thought to be extinct, she saved it just in time before a landslide on Tedside destroyed the new found plant. Now it is replanted along the Eco trail and being kept in the greenery of endemic plants.
At the end of the Eco trail there is a last plaque warning you that if you wish to walk up further to Christians cave, you better remove all the prickly seeds before you come back down on to the trail and into Adamstown, because the vegetation upon the ridge is very harmful for other flora and will take its place and destroy it.
In the afternoon I went down to the Landing in Bounty Bay to take some pictures and there where some children, along with their parents to play in the landing dock. This is an ideal place for children to enjoy the ocean, because it is semi sheltered from the ocean and so if the seas aren’t to rough the swimming is good. Some of the children had surfing boards and they put them on the longboat ramp, took a sprint, jumped up their boards and surfed down the ramp into the water.

While I was there a few of the smaller boats came back from their fishing trip, one boat was from Christian’s café and it had a box full of Red Coral trout, all for the Friday evening dinner at the café. Also a boat came back with Paul and a friend, they had been spear fishing and caught some big fishes.

I was lucky there were a lot of people around so I could hitch a ride back up the hill of difficulty. The name does credit to the climb up from the landing up to the Edge, because if you are going to walk it, you better take along enough water. It is a climb up to 70 metres but really steep. Just when you are about to leave a warning sign is placed warning you for speed cameras. No worries, they are not around it was a joke from someone and along with the sigh they sticked an old camera up there.

In the evening around 18.30 hours I walked down to Christian’s café. Every Friday there is a dinner with a choice of three courses. This evening it was a choice of roast beef, sausages or fish. For 16 New Zealand dollars (about $9 US) you get a very big full plate of good food. Before and after the dinner people sit around and talk and have a few drinks.
It is open on a Friday evening, because on Saturday it is Sabbath and the only day of from work here on Pitcairn. Sabbath is the official day here, because the official church on Pitcairn is Seventh Day Adventists.
After the dinner some people were invited to come up to Paul and Sue’s place for an evening of Darts and drinks. My cousin and me where welcome too and we had a wonderful time, playing Darts, talking and exchanging jokes. Paul and Sue serve Whale’s tooth shots, these are liquors served in a Whales tooth (from a sperm whale).

The teeth have been hollowed out and hold about the same amount of liquor as a normal shot glass. But since you are holding a big ivory tooth the drinks taste so much better.

Around three in the morning it was about time to go back home and turn in for a good night sleep.
Yesterday on Sabbath I went snorkelling in the morning, I was supposed to go diving, but after the party Friday evening I rather not took the risk. The water around the island is very clear again, and when I jumped in I saw the bottom. It looked about a few metres deep, but the two people who went diving said the bottom was on 18 metres, this just shows you how clear the water around the island is.
In the afternoon we went up to highest point to have a family barbeque.

All the family of the people I am staying at came up and brought lots of very good and wonderful tasting food. Everybody brought chairs along and we had a few good laughs of the state our “Luxury yacht” Bounty Bay is in.

At sundown we all packed up headed back down again, and I turned in for the night because I had some catching up sleep to do.

Pitcairn Island Adventure 7 remains copyright of the author erodrigo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Pitcairn Island Adventure 6

2009-04-11T00:51:41Z

After the party last night I had to wake somewhat early because the Post Office was open. It is open three mornings a week and beside the normal stamps you buy for sending your cards, they have a beautiful collection of Pitcairn stamps. So I bought some nice looking FDC’s (First Day Covers) of among the other things a whole collection of the Bounty.
After that I put the cards in the mail and they will be picked up by the supply ship 2nd of April. The ship takes it back to Tahiti and from there on it is send to Auckland in New Zealand. From here it gets send all around the world, to whatever country you address it to, and all of that service for just one New Zealand dollar, where else around the world can you get so much service for such a small amount of money? So do not be alarmed if you send postcards from Pitcairn and they are not there when you come home, just remember that Pitcairn is dependent on supply ships for many things and they only arrive here every three months.

I heard another strange thing, at least it is really strange to me, the New Zealand or British authorities decided that there is no more money for a doctor on the island, so soon they will be without one. But the strangest part is there is money for a Social worker and New Zealand policemen. It seems to me a doctor is much more useful than the other people, because they are so remote that when something bad happens it can take a while before you are in a hospital.
This afternoon the daughter of my host took us up to the trail of Garnets point.

We walked over a small ridge to the end of the trail and had an amazing overview of Adamstown and the rugged cliffs below. I would not recommend this trail if you are afraid of heights, because on both sides of the trail, you have some pretty steep drop offs. But the view is absolutely worth the walk.

Around 16.30 we went to the town square, because every fortnight (2 weeks) people gather here and trade and sell the things they have been making at home. There was a lot of good food around and it looked to me more people had the same idea because there was some trading done.

The nice part was that Father Jay first made a prayer and after that the trading started and next to the trading there was also a kind of raffle. There were two sealed boxes and a huge watermelon, on a board you could write your name down and guess the weight of each of the three items. I was picked as one of the winners apparently I had a good sense of how heavy the watermelon was and so I won a 5,3 kilo heavy watermelon. The only thing about me winning it is that I have to supply an item for the next raffle in two weeks.
We have had warm weather everyday since we arrive, but I heard that it has not rained on Pitcairn for two months now. So I hope as soon as we leave the people here can have the much-desired rain
Well I have until Sunday to find something; because that is the day the skipper is planning on returning to Mangareva via Temoe atoll.
Even tough by than we have been here for 5 nights and 6 days I still think it is quick, because the island is very beautiful and the people here are very friendly, so what are you waiting for come over and visit. www.visitpitcairn.pn

Pitcairn Island Adventure 6 remains copyright of the author erodrigo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Pitcairn Island Adventure 5

2009-06-14T00:17:14Z

After we landed on Ships landing in Bounty bay we where welcomed by the immigration officer and our hosts. Since there are no hotels on Pitcairn you stay at the local residents. This is so much better than a stay at a hotel because you learn much more about a place talking to people than just staying at some hotel.
I am staying at Jay and Carol Warren and they really spoil me with an abundance of wonderful food and their marvellous hospitality.
Tuesday I walked around Adamstown, visiting the town’s square, where the Bounty’s anchor is and when I walked up to Adams grave I past a canon from the Bounty.

Pitcairn is a really beautiful island and there is much more trees and green than I ever expected.
Yesterday we took a Quad bike tour around the island. This was so good; we saw all the highlights, Tedside, St Pauls (the pool) Down rope and had lunch at the highest point, which is about 1100 feet above sea level. We just went all around and one sight was even more spectacular and beautiful then the other.

We were lucky enough to find Mrs. T standing in the middle of the road. Mrs. T is a giant turtle that lives on the island. Our host gave her a melon, but at first she was careful and hissed at us when we came to close.

On our way back she was much more enthusiastic and was enjoying her melon.

In the evening we had a blast of a party at Andrews place. It is at the moment the highest located house at the island. The party was in honour of his fathers demise 5 years ago.
The island is full of tropical fruit, Papaya, Pineapple, Coconut, Oranges, Banana, Lemon, you name it and it is here so I am really enjoying the fruit salads my hosts make.
Pitcairn lives up to all my expectations and more. If you are thinking about visiting, stop thinking and go. You will find more information on www.visitpitcairn.pn

Pitcairn Island Adventure 5 remains copyright of the author erodrigo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Pitcairn Island Adventure 4

2009-05-10T15:08:36Z

At 3.30 in the morning just when we where about to hoist anchor and steam to Pitcairn an oil line sprung and the whole aft deck was splattered with oil. Our trusted Jack had to work for 5 hours to get the problem fixed. But finally he did and we where able to leave at 9 in the morning. It will take up to 20 hours to cover the 120 km (75 miles) from Oeno to Pitcairn

When the Pitcairn people go to Oeno, like us they use GPS to navigate. They take 2 longboats fill it with everything they need including 20 litre barrels of fresh water and they make the trip in 9 hour. You do the math!
After a few hours problem number …. (I lost track) arose. Due to the oil line breaking there was now some diesel fuel in the oil lines. But there is nothing Jack can do at open sea so we headed on.
Finally at 2.30 in the morning we reached Pitcairn Island.

Pitcairn Island Adventure 4 remains copyright of the author erodrigo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Pitcairn Island Adventure 3

2009-04-11T00:05:05Z

Today we loaded the Dinghy with our stuff in waterproof bags and headed for Oeno to spend the night on a deserted island.
There is only one small opening in the outer reef and it is an about 1 meter deep sandy part in the all around coral.
We approached the gap and big waves pushed us on in, just at the moment we where in the hole a 2 meter high wave caught up with us and we went sidewards and almost tipped over, if it weren’t for the skilled steering of Andrew, he got the boat straight again and got us trough the hole.

At the moment we where trough the engine died. Turned out that the wave had made the fuel line come off, but Andrew put it on again and it was all smooth sailing for the last 500 meters to the island. We could finally let our adrenile rush calm down
Once landed on Oeno we unloaded our stuff in an old shed. The Pitcairn people are building a new one now because for them Oeno is a holiday island where they spend in average one week each time they go. It is about 120 km (75 miles) from Pitcairn Island.

The rest of the day we walked around the island and snorkled the inner reef. In the evening we heated up canned Spaghetti on an open fire, had canned pineapple for dessert and topped it off with some freeze dried coffee, yes we are really true survivalists. Altough we did get some coconuts out of the tree and eat the meat and drank the milk at a big bonfire we started at the beach, Alcohol is not allowed on Oeno.

On Sunday morning we packed up and headed out again. After an other adreneline rush going to reef and hitting some 2 meter waves head on we returned to our boat.
After our breakfast it turned out that our wonder worker had got the compressor working and he had filled up some bottles with air and we could go diving. So we put on our scuba gear and hit the water.
The visibility is amazing and the untouched corals beautiful. There aren’t many fish around but we did see an astonishing beautiful Nudie Branch, with green and black colours and grey spots.
After returning back to the boat we went back in the old rythem of eating and sleeping as we set sail for Pitcairn Island.
If the wind stays calm we should reach Pitcairn Island around 23.00 hours tomorrow.
Kurt told us the original plan to go to Ducie is no longer an option because of the state of the engine.

Pitcairn Island Adventure 3 remains copyright of the author erodrigo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Pitcairn Island Adventure 2

2009-04-10T23:04:07Z

After 60 hours at sea we finally reached our first Pitcairn Island: Oeno.

It is a miracle we arrived at all, but more about that later on.
Rock ‘n Roll is not a dance it is a nautical term! You never danced like this when you have not been to the South Pacific. For almost 60 hours our boat was rocking and rolling on the waves and we danced along with it. And this is called calm weather, wirh winds up to 40 km (25 mph). But we made it.
Now for the problem, we can't land at Oeno because the equipment on board is not working. The compressor is out of order and so diving is no longer an option. Our chief engineer is doing his utmost to get the thing working. For floating the dinghy however an electrical compressor was at hand.
Because the state of the machinery on board is not good, every 6 hours 1 of the engines has to be switched of and checked to diminish the risk of overheating. For this reason the cooling system is checked for an air lock and if it is there the system has to be refilled.
Every 18 hours both engines have to be stopped and our miracle workere Jack has to do his magic for 2 hours to get the motors up and running again.
Last night the crew was even hosing the engine room because apparently some water had come in or the cooling system sprung a leak, they wouldn’t say.
The skipper considered turning back, brcause of the faulty engine but our wonder mecanic fixed it and so we went on.
I am sure we are no longer going to Ducie and even if the skipper says he will go I will not come with.
But on the positive side, we caught a Red Coral Trout and so we have fresh fish for dinner.

Pitcairn Island Adventure 2 remains copyright of the author erodrigo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Pitcairn Island Adventure 1

2009-04-10T22:54:48Z

Today we arrived at Mangareva airport, Gambier Islands (French Polynesia), in an Air Tahiti ATR72. Within minutes after arriving 7 passengers out of 8 for the Pacific Expeditions travel to the 4 Pitcairn Islands had found each other. I guess we all looked the adventurous type ;-)
After the watertaxi had brought us to the main island we where picked up by our skipper Kurt. He brought us and our luggage to the Bounty Bay (our 14 meter vessel for this trip).

Upon arrival we met the other two crewmembers:
- Andrew, Man of all trades, from Pitcairn,
- Jack, Chief engineer, from Tuvaly
- Kurt, Skipper, from Austria living in Thailand
There was supposed to be an 8 passenger, but he never showed up. We where now with 3 Americans, 1 Polish-American, a Norwegian guy and me and my cousin from the Netherlands. Off the 7 we where with 6 divers, so finding a buddy for diving would be no problem.
After our briefing about safety and regulations on this trip, the 3 Americans and the Norwegian guy disappeared to town and we 3 stayed behind, because we where supposed to go to the Gendarmerie (Police) at 3 to get our passport stamped.

So at half past two we left for the Gendarmerie with our skipper and at thye police station we met the Norwegian guy who told us the 3 Americans had jumped ship and he was about to do the same.: MUTINY
What happened? It turned out that the three guys thought that the Bounty Bay was beneath their standards and they wanted to go dive everyday. Well obviously they had not read the website very good because they had booked the trip to Ducie where there might be the odd possibility to dive. The Norwegian guy tought this was a diving trip too and said goodbye to us as well.
The problem remained though, since the 3 Americans didn’t say to the skipper, saying they where leaving, he remained responsible After a long 2 hour search he found them and asked them about their plans and returned back to the boat. By that time it was to late to leave jarbour because the risks in the Gambier Island atoll was to great. So we had already lost one day, I guess we should sue them for missing a day of travel.

Wednesday 11 of March

Finally we left port with a 15 hour delay, after a 2 hour navigation trough the Gambier Island atoll we hit the Big Blue, we where now on the Pacific. For the coming two days there’s nothing more to do than to sit eat and talk, what a hard life we lead. It is just the Polish American guy and us two Dutch guys plus the 3 headed crew, it is almost a personal cruise.
For a calm sea it there where some big waves from 2 up to 4 metres.
We past Temoe atoll after 6 hours and some booby birds came to say hello around lunchtime.

After Temoe there is no more land until we reach the Pitcairn Islands.
From now on it is all Pacific Ocean and trying not to fall down when you are walking on deck, because the boat is really rolling nicely on the waves.
We did however took on a extra holiday task, upon request we said to the skipper we all take 2 hour night watches.

Pitcairn Island Adventure 1 remains copyright of the author erodrigo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Madeira

2008-10-15T20:36:42Z

There is enough to see on and around the island.

We visited the most eastern point, a very rugged and windy part of the island but because of the scenery of the water swept and carved rocks, very beautiful.
We went dolphin/whale watching. There were no whales to be seen on our tour but still we where lucky because we saw three kinds of dolphins; the spotted one, the bottlenose and the regular grey dolphin. They are such a fun sight to see as they jump out of the water in front of the boat and their speed is amazing.

We dove at the two breasts, yes I am sorry but that is how the dive sight is called and although this is no tropical water there where still a lot of beautiful fish.
The food on the island is wonderful and the roads inland to the various restaurants we visited are exciting.
The last two days I have been a bit handicapped. In my rush to be in time for the boat dive I( bumped my big toe against a stone and now it is broken.
Yes the island is beautiful, but you have to be carefull walking around ;-)

Madeira remains copyright of the author erodrigo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Madeira

2008-10-09T22:32:55Z

We have arrived in Canico de Baixa, it is a village halfway the airport and the capital of Madeira; Funchal.

See the itinerary of this trip, and details about each destination.

We have our camp at a very nice hotel named Galomar, with very good service and very friendly personel. We discovered some very nice restaurants and I must say the seafood here is very good, but for you who do not like fish they have a wide variety of meat too, so do not let the fish stop you, to come and visit this tranquile island in the Atlantic.
Yesterday we made our first dive in the waters surrounding the hotel and I must say the water is very nice. It may be almost half October but the water temperature is perfect. It is still a very agreable 23 degrees celcius at about 20 metres so diving is good.
Okay you will not find coral reefs here, but diving here has it own charms. Like any other place you have to see it at it own merits.
The wheather is nice, 25 degrees and sunny, and the water is fine. This combined with the good food, what else does a person need.
And next too all of this I can practice the Portugese language which I have learned, so for me it is a win-win situation

Madeira remains copyright of the author erodrigo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Bonaire

2008-06-20T06:08:11Z

Bonaire, after Curaçao and Aruba I arrived at Bonaire. What a difference, you will hardly believe. Although it is part of the same group as Aruba and Curaçao it springs out positive. In nature and quietness. It is much more relaxed and quite than the other two and has one very BIG advantage. It is in the top three of best diving sites in the world.
What a place to have a cold. Yes that is the lucky side of me. I am finally here and after two dives I have to stop because I have a cold.

But I have to tell you where to eat, because you have places to eat and then you have two restaurants where you really want to eat; La Salsa and it rains fishes at the Kralendijk promenade in the city Kralendijk.
The food is the best I tasted so far in every restaurant I have visited in the last two weeks and is even better than many restaurants I have visited around the world.
The service is likewise and the personnel is very friendly.
Tips for restaurants in Bonaire:
1. La Salsa: Great food and likewise service
1. It rains fishes: if your a fish lover; same quality and services as La Salsa
2. La Guernica: Good Spanish based food and great service
3. City Cafe: Service is good and friendly but food is just like any other pub around the world. Not bad but not great either
4. Rum runners: Service is slow and the food is just under average. The view is marvelous

Do not go to Le Flamboyant. The food is overcooked or burned and the service is just lousy.
They serve you food spill it over your clothes and don't even bother to say sorry or offer help in cleaning it. They just say there are the napkins.

Bonaire remains copyright of the author erodrigo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Aruba

2008-06-10T20:08:13Z

Of the three islands I visit this trip, Aruba, Bonaire and Curaçao, I think for me this is the least interesting island. Since I am not a beach bum and am interested in nature and culture there is hardly anything for me here. Except for a lighthouse and a road with 14 crosses that ends up at a little chapel. The road is walked by the local people every year on Good Friday and they pray at every cross of the 14 there.
Well that where the highlights ;-)

If you like beaches and American culture (McDonalds, Wendy's, Dunkin Donuts etc etc) you will have a blast on this island.
But like I said; not me so after two days I left the place and went for Bonaire; where there is more to see for someone like me.

Aruba remains copyright of the author erodrigo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Curaçao

2008-06-20T06:14:57Z

Today I left Curaçao to fly to Aruba and after Aruba I will fly to Bonaire. So When I get back home again I will have seen three of the six Dutch tropical islands.
Who ever said it always rains and it is cold in the Netherlands was not paying attention ;-)

See the itinerary of this trip, and details about each destination.

Although I have only seen Curaçao I must say I am positively surprised. There is much more to see and do on the island than what I thought could be found. I thought Curaçao was like Aruba, all beach with only one difference a very beautiful capital; Willemstad. Willemstad is really worth a visit, it historic centre is well preserved and the look of the old Dutch houses in these bright colors is absolutely wonderful.

But there is a load more to Curaçao. But do not take a normal East-West tour, ask a cab driver to show you all the beautiful places of the island, because you get to see much more wonderful places in a much shorter time and the
good part is you can get out of the car when ever you want. The tour busses only stop a few times and not always at the best places.
If you are lucky like me and have a friend on the island ask her or him to show you Curaçao. I am sure you are amazed just like I was.

But internet is slow in many places so always save your work before uploading it to your site or blog

Curaçao remains copyright of the author erodrigo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Marsa Alam - Dolphin House Reef

2008-06-30T11:06:02Z

Today we went to Gabal el Rosas, a really beautiful reef near our Brayka Bay Reef hotel in Marsa Alam. The first drop off is until 20 meters. And there are some pinnacles at 30 meters, but the long reef at 20 meters is absolutely beautiful so you don’t need to waist your air and go deeper.
We went in a zodiac to the drop off point and that was an adventure in itself. The red sea is still very stormy and we had waves up to two meters. But the reef was worth the circus ride.

Yesterday we went on the sheiks yacht to Dolphin house reef. The Red sea was even more rocky then today and we had waves up to 4 meters. Though we looked very hard there were no dolphins to be found. We made two dives. One on the east point and one on the west point of the reef. But Flipper and his friends never showed up. Guess a Dolphin isn’t a friend of man after all? Or maybe our group wasn’t human enough. Well it didn’t matter because the reef is wonderful with lots to see. So go there anyway if you’re ever in the neighborhood. It’s also good for snorkeling.
On the way back the boat had it rough and it was rocking and rolling, but not the people. Some people went sick, but well shit happens.

Marsa Alam - Dolphin House Reef remains copyright of the author erodrigo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Marsa Alam - Abu Dabab

2008-06-30T11:06:17Z

Marsa Alam

Yesterday I made my Check dive, which is obligated here by the Extra Divers dive center. But that was no punishment, because the housed reef was very nice to start this diving holyday off. What made it especially nice where the huge amounts of lion fish, often you see them alone in the reef hidden under a rock but here they where all together in the open, very nice.

Today I went to Abu Dabab to kook for the Dugong (Sea Cow) but although there was a lot of sea grass we didn’t meet him. We did however met a very big turtle (1,5 to 2 meters long) grazing while we where looking. He didn’t seem to mind us because he just kept on his feeding pattern as if we weren’t there. And a big fich kept his mouth sucked to his shield.
As soon as I can upload the photo’s I’ll show them.

In the afternoon we went to Marsa Asalaya, for the second dive. Although there were a lot of fishes, it wasn’t especially nice because the water here was very murky and visibility was bad.
But all in all it wasn’t a bad day, this first dive day. The water is very nice (25 degrees Celsius at 20 meters) and the outlooks are promising. Tomorrow I go to Dolphin house reef where there should be lots of dolphins, hence the name.
If you want a good preparation and good value for money dive voucher visit: http://www.duikgroepen.nl/

Marsa Alam - Abu Dabab remains copyright of the author erodrigo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Nadam

2008-06-30T11:11:50Z

We saw the archers and wrestlers coming into the stadium in their many coloured traditional outfits. Suddenly a loud eruption of enthusiasm from the local people, finally the very important traditional banners are brought in by proud Mongolian horsemen in parade uniforms.
I’m overwhelmed by the power they radiate and the influence their appearance has on the local people. As if Chinggis Khan himself is marching by just three feet away from you.

After a lovely vegan menu, yes really, we leave Ulaanbataar in a gigantic traffic jam. It looks like all the 55.000 cars from the city decided to leave the city at the same time and all choose the same two lane street out of the city. What was a two-lane two-direction street quickly becomes a four-lane one-direction street, because everyone wants to see the finish of the race between the 5-year old stallions. The odd car that goes in the opposite direction has stopped trying to reach Ulaanbataar and the people are sitting next to it, looking at this big migration.
This 26 km race is so important because for the stallions it decides if they stay a stallion or become just a horse.
After a lovely meal in a French restaurant, which is owned by the typical arrogant Frenchman, we turned in for the night.

Nadam remains copyright of the author erodrigo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Friday the 13th

2008-06-30T11:11:11Z

Yesterday we had a long day drive, 300 km, to reach our first ger camp. These 300 kilometres take about 9 hours going south from Ulaanbataar.
Today we had another long drive to our primitive campsite in the middle off the Gobi, but we made a lovely stop at a now almost dry lake. The lake had shrunk by a lack of rain and of a nearby mining site.
We had a big rain shower on the way to our campsite and were lucky enough to be just a few metres ahead of a mud flood up in a mountain range we crossed. The flood was building up and if we had reached the crossing 5 minutes later we would not have been able to cross the range and would be forced to turn back. We drove through the first waves of the flood and got the hell out of there because there was lots more coming down the mountain.
Other reasons why you should not travel on Friday the 13th: In the morning our car wouldn’t start and in the afternoon we had a blow out of a rear tire.
Almost enough to make you start believe all this nonsense about Friday the 13th.

Friday the 13th remains copyright of the author erodrigo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Dinosaurs

2008-06-30T11:10:24Z

This morning we left for the flaming cliffs in the central Gobi. These all kinds of colours cliffs, but mainly red, hence the name where made famous in 1921. When an expedition finally resolved the question whether Dinosaurs are egg laying or life bearing animals.
Around these cliffs the expedition uncovered many dinosaur skeletons, but more importantly lots of eggs. Both of flesh eating dinosaurs, small eggs, and of plant eating dinosaurs, big eggs.
Next to these Grand Canyon like cliffs is a very tiny dinosaur museum in a typical Mongolian ger tent.

In the afternoon, after we settled ourselves in our 5 star luxury ger tent resort, we drove to vulture canyon. Going up in the mountains the temperature dropped from about 30 °C to a refreshing 18 °C and the surroundings started to get very green.
During our horseback ride in the canyon we saw a lot of wildlife, but as luck would have it no vultures. We did however saw ice! Yes really mid July in the middle of the Gobi ice.
Hereafter we turned back to our ger camp and had a luscious warm shower a meal in an air-conditioned ger and electric sockets in our private ger tents to recharge our camera batteries.
Yes we’re really roughing it out here.

Dinosaurs remains copyright of the author erodrigo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Gobi sand dunes

2009-06-14T00:39:59Z

We headed off in southern direction to another 5 star ger camp, this time in the south Gobi, near the Chinese border.
Near this new ger camp we finally saw, for the first time this trip, the enormous sand dunes for which the Gobi is famous. After settling in and close to sunset we drove to these sand dunes to climb them. We made a really exhausting climb up a 200-meter high sand dune and admired the sunset from the top. We had a bit of luck on our climb, because of the recent rain, the sand had hardened a bit so instead of going down two steps with every three steps up, we only went down one step with every three steps up.

Back in our ger camp it started raining again and once in our gers to turn in for the night it started poring.
The next morning, Monday the 16th, the rain had cleared and we headed out of the Gobi on a northerly course.

During the day it started raining again and when we reached our next ger camp it seemed like a tropical rainstorm was upon us. But according to our local Mongolian guide we were one of the lucky groups, through our oneness and therefore able to reach this central camp between the south Gobi and the central Gobi.
As it turned out this camp is situated in a mountain range that separates the north from the south Gobi and is one of the rare crossing points to go north out of the Gobi. Several groups started the climb up to this camp to late and had to turn back because mud floods blocked their way up.

Gobi sand dunes remains copyright of the author erodrigo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Kharakhorum

2009-06-14T00:58:33Z

Today we left camp to head for the ancient city of Kharakhorum.
Once there we first drove up a hill, next to the city, to hear a story about an enormous penis and vagina.
These were made on the order of the head of the local monastery, because his young monks where only interested in the local women and not in their prayers. Once the priest had performed many mantras and sutras at these reproductive symbols the young monks returned to their prayers again and no longer looked at the local women. At least that is what the legend says.
But as the story goes up to this day women who want to get pregnant, but have problems getting, come in the early morning to these symbols and ride the big penis, because they believe it will bless them.

We then visited the monastery in the former capital, founded by Chinggis Khan. The monastery was largely destroyed during the communist purge under the Soviet influence of Mongolia. A large part of the monastery has been restored since 1996 and since then there are again Buddhist monks living and studying in the monastery.
On the earlier mentioned hill and outside the monastery there are two huge statues of turtles, which make no sense what so ever because Mongolia has no seas.
The ruins of the former Chinggis Khan capital surround the statue near the monastery. As a big contrast in the back of these ruins and the statue stands a very ugly polluting asphalt factory. Which is a shame off course but can deliver a nice photograph if you stand on the other side of the monastery. From that side it looks like the monastery is on fire because of the black smoke from the factory.
After our visit we headed off north through a UNESCO protected nature reserve and saw our first Yaks. Little did we know that in the coming days we would see more and more of them, together with Yak and cow cross breads, named Hannocks.
It became obvious we where heading north because the surrounding plains and mountain ranges became greener and greener and the nights got colder.
Mongolia, what a beautiful country.

Kharakhorum remains copyright of the author erodrigo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Big marmots

2008-06-30T11:08:54Z

Last night we stayed in a ger camp nest to a hot spring at Thenther. After we left camp we had a long drive to Therkhun Taagaan lake via Tsertserleg city. In this city the locals came from all around with their goods to sell their wood, wool, eggs mares milk etc.
Hereafter we left the city and crossed a large wooden bridge, which according to the road sign could carry a 5-ton payload. But it looked so crooked that even our drivers in our light Gaz busses where not planning to cross at the same time.

But we made across safely and had an very early lunch near Chuluud canyon, which is an impressive piece of natures work.
The plan was to have lunch at one but since in the morning we had a short stop and our drivers had purchased a big marmot they got very excited and instead we stopped for lunch just after eleven. Apparently Mongolian men are just crazy for this meat and can’t resist it.
I got offered to taste it and I must say it tastes very nice; it’s a cross between rabbit and hare. The way it is prepared is noticeable when you eat it. The neck of the animal is cut and they place a lot of very hot stones inside and thus cooking the meat from inside. The way you notice this is that they don’t clean the stones so after your meal you keep eating sand.

Big marmots remains copyright of the author erodrigo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Moron city

2009-06-14T01:06:42Z

Today after a very long drive, 11 hours for 300 kilometres, we finally reached Khuvsgul lake in the north of Mongolia at the border with Russia.

On the way there we made a stop at Moron city to visit the local Nadam festival. Again we saw the 5-year old stallions pass the finish line after their 26 km race and even a horse which had obviously lost it’s jockey, but ran anyway in a horde like manner with the other horses.
We looked at the wrestlers from the jury box and especially the women in our group were very happy because we were close enough to touch these impressive men.

After all this excitement we looked at the ankle bow archers and we came to the conclusion that it’s better to visit this Nadam than the one in Ulaanbataar, because here you can get so close to the athletes that you can literally touch them, which is impossible at the national Nadam in the capital.
After many days of very tiring drives we had a two day stop at the Khuvsgul lake and saw some reindeer and had a nice two hour long horse drive along the shores of the lake. Some of the brave ones among us had a dip in the very cold lake, which couldn’t have been more than 10 to 13 degrees Celsius.

Moron city remains copyright of the author erodrigo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Leaving Mongolia

2008-06-30T11:06:32Z

See the itinerary of this trip, and details about each destination.

After a very beautiful but long drive, due to a “short cut” via a marshland we arrived in our last ger camp. On the way here we made a quick shopping stop at Erdenet city. In this city the Russians run a Copper mine and collect 60% of the profits and the Mongolian government only 40%.
After we settled down in our ger tents we went to visit Amarbayasgalan monastery. This is a very beautiful and big Buddhist monastery and absolutely worth a visit if you’re ever over here in Mongolia.
I’m sad to say that tomorrow we drive back to Ulaanbataar via Darkhan city and we’re going to visit our last monastery in Ulaanbataar, Uran Togoo. This monastery houses an enormous statue of Buddha.
I’ll be sad to leave this country because it’s so beautiful, quiet and houses large pieces of unspoiled nature.
Although there are very few asphalt roads in Mongolia it’s absolutely worth the bumpy rides through this country. So if you’re thinking about a visit, stop thinking and just go, you’ll love it.

Leaving Mongolia remains copyright of the author erodrigo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Beijing

2008-06-30T11:13:01Z

Well I arrived in Beijing and it’s one big building site for the upcoming Olympics.
Traffic is still booming and even more so than two years ago.
The Chinesw people really have discovered fast food because they are getting fat fast.
Luckily the real chinese food is still around and I enjoyed it very much. Tonight I’m going to eat Hot Pot or chinese fondue. Also something which is very good. If you like good food consider coming over.
Today we went to the great wall and the summerpalace. This contains the Marble boat built by the last empress of China. Yes the mother of the poor lonely last emperor of China.
Well tommorrow the real adventure starts when we fly to Mongolia. Two full weeks bumping in fomer Sovjet Kamaz trucks.
I’m sure I/m going to enjoy it.
Bye for now

Beijing remains copyright of the author erodrigo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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